Have you ever invested in a bespoke suit? Every person deserves to have at least one tailored suit in his/her life instead of constantly purchasing off-the-peg outfits.
If you have finally decided to pamper yourself by having an outfit made by a professional tailor, make sure to consider all the customizable options. Men and women are supposed to opt for the right style, jacket construction, suit material, and trousers’ style.
There is a wide range of custom tailored clothing companies creating suits for both men and women.
The following tips will assist you in the decision-making journey.
Select a style
When shopping for a bespoke suit, there are two basic styles to choose from, single-breasted and double-breasted. The former is designed with a single button column and a narrow fabric overlapping. This style looks well in both social and business environments.
The latter, on the other hand, comes with two columns of buttons with a large fabric overlap. The majority of men wear double-breasted suits when aiming for a formal look. There might be two additional buttons, one on each lapel.
Regardless of the style you opt for, a well-tailored outfit isn’t only supposed to look elegant but also to fit you well. Bespoke outfits are supposed to feature minimal shoulders and clean lines. Unlike off-the-rack suits, bespoke models should emphasize the body shape of the wearer and cause no restrictions in his movement.
Regarding shoulder padding, bespoke models are tailored with either slight or no padding. Slight shoulder padding is recommended to men and women looking for a powerful business look. Conversely, suits with no shoulder padding are more comfortable and provide easier movement. The length of the jacket is supposed to cover the bottom of the wearer but still provide a long leg line. Click here to get familiar with the four main types of shoulder styles.
Consider the jacket construction
Once you have selected the right style, you are supposed to consider the jacket construction. The way in which the jacket is constructed plays a crucial role in the quality of the overall outfit. There are three types of basic suit jacket constructions, fused, half-canvassed, and full-canvassed. Fused jackets don’t provide the perfect fit to the wearer’s body because the interlining is just glued to the fabric that’s visible.
Nevertheless, a half-canvassed jacket construction features a thin layer that covers the front panel, along with a piece of material covering the area from the shoulders to the chest. This construction is highly preferred among men and women searching for high quality without paying a large sum of money.
The costliest model of jacket construction is the full-canvased type. This canvas, made of wool and camel or horsehair, covers the whole front panel area along with the lapels. Tailors hand-stitch the canvas to suit fabric loosely in order not to limit the range of motion.
Consider the fabric
Another important consideration when having a bespoke suit tailored is the choice of fabric. Apart from completing the look of the outfit, the outer fabric affects the performance of the suit in different weather conditions. There are two layers of fabric to take into account, the outer fabric and the inner lining fabric.
Moreover, the outer material usually includes cotton, wool, microfiber, or linen. The inner lining is usually made of Bemberg or silk. Each of these materials is specific for its properties, which influence its performance and quality. Let’s take wool as an example. Most wearers prefer wool because of its luxury look and breathability. People living in hot climates would find this fabric most comfortable, as it prevents sweat from trapping. On the negative side, wool wrinkles easily, and it’s prone to tearing.
Cotton is another suitable choice of suit material for individuals dwelling in hot climates. Although cotton outfits keep wearers cool, they’re thought to be casual, hence inappropriate for formal events. Linen is another great choice of fabric for buyers fond of casual outfits. Although it’s breathable, linen, like wool, is susceptible to wrinkling.
Microfiber is the least suitable fabric for men and women living in hot regions, as it provides no breathability. In most cases, this material is blended with other high-quality fabrics to improve breathability and comfort in wearers.
Even though the inner lining isn’t visible, the selection of material is as important, given it comes in direct contact with the body. As mentioned before, individuals are provided with two lining options, silk, and Bemberg. The former is known for its incredible cooling properties. However, silk is relatively expensive and shows signs of aging after a short period. In contrast, Bemberg is a more affordable variant of silk, providing the same durability and breathability.
Don’t forget the trousers
Although the majority of individuals pay the most attention to the jacket, trousers are another component to consider when choosing an elegant bespoke outfit. Trousers come in three front styles, single pleats, double pleats, and flat. Males of larger build are advised to choose a flat front style, as pleats make the hips look wider. Otherwise, pleats offer great functionality by allowing wearers to move easily.
Additionally, the waistband is another thing to have in mind when choosing suit trousers, referring to the fabric strip that surrounds the waist and includes mechanisms like buttons or hooks. Belt loops and side adjusters are other popular alternatives for holding the trousers in place.
Ultimately, hem and cuffs should also be considered when choosing dress pants. These trousers are either finished with a cuff or a hem. A cuff refers to the style of pants where the material at the bottom is folded up on the outer side. Conversely, a hem stands for the bottom of plain trousers, as the material is folded up on the inner side. Hemmed pants are considered more casual than the cuffed variant, which is why they are widely preferred.
A final note
Bespoke custom-made outfits are more comfortable and nice-looking than off-the-peg suits.
Invest in one!